Leith

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Leith
Scottish Gaelic: Lìte[1]
Rth Edin Leith .Forth.Fife 26.10.11 edited-2.jpg
Aerial view of Leith and the Firth of Forth
Leith is located in Edinburgh
Leith

 Leith shown within Edinburgh
Council areaCity of Edinburgh
Lieutenancy areaEdinburgh
CountryScotland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townEDINBURGH
Postcode districtEH6
Dialling code0131
PoliceScottish
FireScottish
AmbulanceScottish
EU ParliamentScotland
UK ParliamentEdinburgh North and Leith
Scottish ParliamentEdinburgh Northern and Leith
List of places
UK
Scotland
Edinburgh
 
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Coordinates: 55°58′48″N 3°10′12″W / 55.980089°N 3.170049°W / 55.980089; -3.170049

Leith
Scottish Gaelic: Lìte[1]
Rth Edin Leith .Forth.Fife 26.10.11 edited-2.jpg
Aerial view of Leith and the Firth of Forth
Leith is located in Edinburgh
Leith

 Leith shown within Edinburgh
Council areaCity of Edinburgh
Lieutenancy areaEdinburgh
CountryScotland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townEDINBURGH
Postcode districtEH6
Dialling code0131
PoliceScottish
FireScottish
AmbulanceScottish
EU ParliamentScotland
UK ParliamentEdinburgh North and Leith
Scottish ParliamentEdinburgh Northern and Leith
List of places
UK
Scotland
Edinburgh

Leith (/ˈlθ/ LEETH) is a district and former municipal burgh[2] to the north of the city of Edinburgh at the mouth of the Water of Leith in Scotland.

Leith has long been regarded as Edinburgh's port.[3] It lies on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, in the unitary local authority of the City of Edinburgh.

Leith was first referred to by name in the charter authorising the construction of Holyrood Abbey,[4][5] and it officially became Edinburgh's port in 1329 when Robert I transferred control to the magistrates and citizens of Edinburgh. It remains a busy port, handling over 1.5 million tonnes of cargo a year in 2003.[6]

South Leith v. North Leith[edit]

Up until the late 16th century, Leith (originally designated Inverleith, i.e. the mouth of the Water of Leith, on early maps), comprised two separate settlements on either side of the river.

South Leith was the larger and was controlled by the lairds of Restalrig, first the Leiths and then the Logan family. It was based on trade and had many merchants' houses and warehouses. This was where ships offloaded their cargoes at The Shore where they were collected by Edinburgh merchants. Leithers were explicitly forbidden by statute to participate directly in the trade at the port, to ensure that landed goods were not sold elsewhere.[nb 1]

North Leith was smaller but proportionately richer, coming under the jurisdiction of Holyrood Abbey. It was effectively a fishing village consisting of one street, now Sandport Street and Quayside Lane. Burgage plots ran down to the river from each house.[8] This has traditionally been the shipbuilding side of Leith with several wet and dry docks built over time. The first dry dock in Scotland was built here in 1720. A small peninsula of land on the east bank also came under the same jurisdiction on what is now Sheriff Brae/Sheriff Bank. The first bridge to link both banks of the river was built in 1496 by Abbot Bellenden, who controlled the church at North Leith. The bridge was a toll bridge, the revenue supplementing the church's income. Reputedly Leith's oldest building, it was demolished in 1780 to allow ships to sail further upstream.

History[edit]

The Shore, Leith

The earliest evidence of settlement in Leith comes from several archaeological digs undertaken in the Leith area in the late 20th century. Amongst the finds were medieval wharf edges from the 12th century. This date fits with the earliest documentary evidence of settlement in Leith - the foundation charter of Holyrood Abbey. At the time, Leith was of much less prominence than neighbouring settlements like Broughton and Pittendreich. These are mentioned by name, while Leith is only referenced as 'the lands of Inverleith'.[5]

Leith has played a long and prominent role in Scottish history. As the major port serving Edinburgh, it has been the stage on which many significant events in Scottish history have taken place. Mary of Guise ruled Scotland from Leith in 1560 as Regent while her daughter, Mary, Queen of Scots remained in France. Mary of Guise moved the Scottish Court to Leith, to a site that is now Parliament street, off Coalhill. According to the 18th-century historian William Maitland, her palace was situated on Rotten Row, now Water Street. Artifacts from the demolished residence are held by the National Museum of Scotland, and her sculptured coat of arms, dated 1560, can be seen in South Leith Parish Church. When the large French garrison stationed in Leith was attacked by Scottish Protestant lords, reinforced by troops and artillery sent from England, Mary of Guise was forced to shut herself in Edinburgh Castle. In June 1560, Mary of Guise died, and the Siege of Leith ended with the departure of the French troops in accordance with the Treaty of Leith, also known as the Treaty of Edinburgh.

'Giant's Brae' on Leith Links

Two mounds on Leith Links, known as "Giant's Brae" and "Lady Fyfe's Brae", identified as Somerset's Battery and Pelham's Battery respectively, are believed to be artillery mounds created for the siege in April 1560 and are listed as scheduled monuments. However, the historian Stuart Harris was of the opinion, based largely on the contemporary Petworth map, that Pelham's Battery was built on the slope to the south of Leith Links and Somerset's Battery was located adjacent to the present Pilrig House. He also notes that the "tradition" that these batteries were situated on Leith Links is spurious, going no further back than Campbell's "History of Leith" 1827. Lent authority by the Ordnance Survey map of 1852, this attribution saved the mounds when several other hillocks on the links were removed in the 1880s.[9] The best documented day of the siege was 7 May 1560, when the English and Scots charged the walls of Leith with ladders that turned out to be too short. John Knox records the delight of Mary of Guise at the failure of the attack, and English sources report 1000 casualties.[10]

Lamb's House in 2009

Late in 1561, Mary, Queen of Scots, arrived in Leith and, finding no welcoming party to receive her, made a brief stop at the "house of Andro Lamb ... beit the space of ane hour", before being collected and escorted by coach to Holyrood Palace, to begin her ill-fated six-year-long reign. The Protestant reformer, John Knox, explained the lack of preparation thus;

"The ninetein Day of August 1561 Yeirs, betwene seven and eicht Hours Befoir none, arryved Marie Quene of Scotland, then Wedo, with two Gallies furth of France ... becaus the Palace of Halyrudehous was not throuchly put in Ordour (for hir cumming was more suddane then many luiked for), sche remained in Leyth, till towards the Evening, and then repaired thither"[11]

Remains of the Citadel

After the abdication of Mary Queen of Scots in 1567, during the ensuing civil war, troops fighting for James VI of Scotland against his mother's supporters in Edinburgh castle based themselves in Leith from 1571-1573, a period called the "Wars between Leith and Edinburgh". A century later, Leith was a prospective battleground when the Army of the Covenant, led by General David Leslie, threw up an earthen rampart between the Calton Hill and Leith to defend the northern approach to Edinburgh against Oliver Cromwell's forces. This rampart became the line of one of Edinburgh's longest streets, Leith Walk. After Cromwell's victory at the Battle of Dunbar in 1650 and subsequent occupation of Scotland, a fort known as Leith Citadel was erected in 1656 to regulate the port traffic. All that remains of the fort today is a vaulted trance in Dock Street which was its main entrance.

The links are the site of an early five hole golf course built in the 18th century. What bolsters Leith's claim to being "the home of golf" is the fact that the official rules of golf, initially formulated at Leith in 1744 by the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, were later adopted by St Andrews. The only difference introduced with those rules (which remain the rules of golf) was the omission of one rule to do with hazards such as trenches. Leith Links also has one of the longest established cricket pitches in Scotland, at 1820 (late by English standards, but early for Scotland).

Royal Artillery at Leith Fort, 1846

During the American War of Independence the Scot John Paul Jones, who is credited as founder of the US Navy, set sail on 14 August 1779 as commodore of a squadron of seven ships with the intention of destroying British commerce in the North Sea. He intended to capture the port of Leith and hold it for ransom, but his plan was thwarted when a gale on 16 September kept him at the mouth the Firth of Forth. The scare he caused led to the hasty erection of Leith Fort, designed by James Craig, the architect of Edinburgh's New Town, and built in 1780. A Georgian terrace to the north-east served as officers' quarters, and was known as "London Row" because, being brick-built, it looked more like a London terrace than any in Edinburgh. The fort was in active use until 1955, latterly serving for National Service training. Most of the barracks were demolished to build a Council housing scheme centred around Fort House and enclosed by the old fort walls. The Council development was an award-winning scheme in its day (1955), but the building was demolished in January 2013 and the site is to be redeveloped. A pair of the old fort's gatehouses survive at the southern entrance to the scheme.

South Leith Parish Kirk
North Leith Parish Kirk

There is a long history of worship in Leith which can be dated back to at least the 12th century.[citation needed] After the Scottish Reformation the principal parish kirk for Leith was South Leith Parish Church, originally constructed in 1483. In June 1811 a statistical population census gave the population of South Leith as 15,938; North Leith 4,875. With a procession and ceremony, the foundation stone of the new church for the parish of North Leith was laid on 11 April 1814.[12]

Leith was the port of entry for the visit of King George IV to Scotland, and The Old Ship Hotel and King's Landing was then given its new name, to mark the King's arrival by ship's boat at Leith Shore for this event, which is remembered most for popularising and decriminalising symbols of Scottish national identity.

Leith Docks became known as the port for Edinburgh and modest shipbuilding and repair facilities grew. On 20 May 1806, there was a procession of the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Magistrates (Baillies), and Council, along with a numerous company of ladies and gentleman, for the opening of the first new Wet Dock, the first of its kind in North Britain. The Fife packet called The Buccleuch was the first to enter the dock, with the civic dignitaries on board, amid discharges of artillery from the Fort and His Majesty's warships in the Roads. The foundation stone for the second (middle) wet dock was laid on 14 March 1811, which was completed and opened with due ceremony in 1817 by Lord Provost Arbuthnot. The same year the Trinity House in Kirkgate was erected in Grecian architectural style at an expense of £2500.[13]

The docks at Leith underwent severe decline in the post-Second World War period, with the area gaining a reputation for roughness and prostitution, with an official 'tolerance zone' until 2001. In recent years, Leith has undergone significant regeneration and is now a busy port with visits from cruise liners and the home of the Royal Yacht Britannia, Ocean Terminal, and administrative offices for several departments of the Scottish Government. The council and government's 'Leith Project' provided a further economic boost. The shore area of Leith, once unattractive, is now a centre for a range of new pubs and restaurants in charming surroundings. On 6 November 2003, Leith was the location for the MTV Europe Music Awards, with a temporary venue being built next to Ocean Terminal.

The Provost and Council of Leith welcome Queen Victoria in 1842

Historically Leith was governed by the Town Council of Edinburgh, with separately organised baillies appointed by various bodies without contact with each other. The result became very unsatisfactory, and half of Leith was provided with no municipal government whatever or any local magistrates. An 1827 Act of Parliament arranged for municipal government and administration of justice in the town, providing watching, paving, cleansing, and lighting, with Edinburgh Council responding to the views of Leith townspeople. In 1833 the Burgh Reform Act made Leith a Parliamentary Burgh, which jointly with Portobello and Musselburgh was represented by one member of Parliament. On 1 November 1833, Leith became a separate Municipal Burgh, with its own provost, magistrates, and council, and was no longer run by bailies. In history the Right Hon. Lord Provost of Edinburgh is virtue officii Admiral of the Firth of Forth, the Provost of Leith is Admiral of the port thereof, and his four bailies were admirals-depute.[14] Until 1923 there was no through tram service between Leith and Edinburgh; at the boundary in Leith Walk it was necessary to change from a Leith tram (electrically powered) to an Edinburgh tram (cable hauled) until the electrification of the Edinburgh Corporation Tramways in the early 1920s.

Continued growth meant that Leith and Edinburgh formed a contiguous urban area. Leith was merged with Edinburgh in 1920 despite a plebiscite in which the people of Leith voted 26,810 to 4,340 against the merger.[2]

Traditional industries[edit]

Leith was Scotland's premier leader in several industries for many centuries. Of these the most notable are:

The 'Porters Stone' from a 17thC wine-merchant's house
Christian Salvesen harpoon gun on The Shore

Geography[edit]

Former Seamen's Mission, now the Malmaison Hotel

After decades of industrial decline, slum clearance and resultant depopulation in the post-war era, Leith gradually began to enjoy an upturn in fortunes in the late 1980s. Several old industrial sites were developed with modest, affordable housing, while small industrial business units were constructed at Swanfield, Bonnington, Seafield and off Lindsay Road. The Shore developed a clutch of upmarket restaurants, including the second of the groundbreaking chain of Malmaison hotels in a conversion of the former "Angel Hotel", a seaman's mission, whilst the once industrially-polluted and desolate banks of the Water of Leith were cleaned up and a public walkway opened.

Leith's gradual revival was also helped by the decision of the then Scottish Office to site their new offices in Leith Docks (just north of the old infilled East Dock). The site was chosen as part of a design-and-build competition against other sites at Haymarket and Marionville. It was completed in 1994. A tram was offered at the time of the application (at Forth Port's expense) from the new office to St Andrew Square, but the Council declined this offer.[17] However, the hoped for influx of well-paid civil service jobs failed to have much local impact as most commute to the office, and only a small percentage venture beyond the confines of the office during lunchtimes. It did however further foster Leith's growing reputation as a white-collar, small business location. Further large-scale service and tourist development followed, including the Ocean Terminal complex and the permanently moored Royal Yacht Britannia. Unfortunately, the plan to connect Ocean Terminal and the Scottish Executive building area by the new Edinburgh Trams by the Port of Leith tram stop has been shelved after dispute between Edinburgh Council and the contractors.

Western Harbour

In 2004 the owner of the docks, Forth Ports, announced plans to eventually close the port and carry out a major redevelopment of the area.[18] The planned development, which was given supplementary planning guidance by the City of Edinburgh Council in 2004, will be the size of a small town with up to 17,000 new homes.[19] It will include developments on the infilled Western Harbour as well as residential, leisure, retail and commercial development across the rest of the old docks. The urban design of the project will keep it in context with the older developments in Leith and provide a wealth of public and private open space, including two large parks and a number of pedestrian linkages across the docks. The whole project is expected to be completed by about 2020.

Area[edit]

Streets in Leith include Constitution Street, Great Junction Street, Henderson Street, Leith Walk and Easter Road.

One of the areas is Timber Bush.

Following developments in Edinburgh and following a change of legislation which allowed people to live outside the town walls and still have trading rights[citation needed] an area to the west of the Leith of the end of the 18th century, flanking Ferry Road, was built. Development was sporadic with only certain sections follow the original feuing. Many streets are named after events or people of the time:

Leith Fort Flats behind the perimeter wall of the Georgian fort, 2009

A centrepiece of the whole development was Leith Fort, built along the lines of Fort George in 1780. This was demolished in 1955 having continued to serve a military function until that time. A housing scheme was then built on its site by Edinburgh Council and named Fort House. Two huge 22 storey blocks, Cairngorm and Grampian House on the north edge, survived less long and were removed in the mid-1990s. The main block was demolished late in 2012.

Some equivalent, less structured Georgian development happened on the east side of Leith, again their date evidenced in street names:

Religion[edit]

Leith has several notable historic churches, including North Leith Parish Church and South Leith Parish Church (both of the Church of Scotland), and the Roman Catholic St Mary's Star of the Sea. The area has Sikh and Hindu Temples, a Shia Imambargah, a Sunni Mosque and community centre, a Pentecostal centre, a Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church; it also has a former Norwegian Church, which is home now to the Leith School of Art.

Transport[edit]

A regular stage coach service ran between Bernard Street and Edinburgh's Old Town from the mid-18th century. By 1863 this had become a horse-drawn omnibus running every 5 minutes from 9am to 10pm.[21] This was put on tracks sometime around 1880[22] effectively then becoming a horse-drawn tram. Leith was the first town in Scotland to electrify its tram system (1905).[23] The tram run until 1956 and was then replaced by buses due to their greater flexibility.

In the mid-nineteenth century the railways came. Leith had one horse-drawn line pre-dating steam-trains, bringing coal from Dalkeith to a station at the north end of Constitution Street, to serve the glassworks there. This dated from the late 18th century. Steam trains arrived in the 1840s, being some of the earliest lines in Britain. There were four railway termini in Leith, however Beeching and the successive governments saw to close them all. Two terminus station buildings still remain however. One station, nicknamed "Leith Citadel", on Commercial Street (now a youth centre) is the second oldest in Scotland (1847).

The SS Sirius (from Leith) beat the SS Great Western by one day in being the first steamship to cross the Atlantic but, as a much smaller ship, was eclipsed by the press coverage given to the larger ship. Leith offered ferry services to many European ports, including Hamburg and Oslo.

Culture and community[edit]

Leith has a long history of idealistic social advances, many of which were the first of their kind in Scottish history:

All boys were educated for free from 1555 onwards. This was paid for by the local trade guilds. All girls were educated from 1820, a long time after the boys, but a very early example of free education for females (only required by law from 1876). A free hospital service was provided from 1777, paid for by a local tax, with beds sponsored by local shops. Leith had electric street lighting from 1890 and electric trams from 1905 (only Blackpool was earlier in the UK). The first public sewer in Scotland was built in Bernard Street in 1780; this flowed into the Water of Leith. The iron seal over the end of the sewer is still visible next to Bernard Street bridge. The sewage is now pumped in the opposite direction (it was laid to fall westwards) to Seafield.[citation needed]

Leith, as with many major ports (having been a Hanseatic League post), is a multicultural area with sizeable African-Caribbean, Asian and Eastern European communities. Other historic groups include Irish, Italian (See Henderson Street) and various refugee groups from the world wars and upheavals of the early 20th century.[citation needed]

A number of festivals occur throughout the year, these include Leith Festival, Leith Late Festival, PLU Parents Like Us and the Edinburgh Mela which is part of the Edinburgh Festival (since 2010) at Leith Links. The Leith Gala now known as Leith Festival Gala Day is an annual event that has taken place since 1907, it was originally an charity event raising sponsorship for local hospital beds before the National Health came into place. It has developed into the Leith Festival ( Leith Festival) a community based festival. in the 1990s and Leith FM (Later renamed Castle FM) started as week long broadcast. Festival dates and venues are published in The Leither Magazine.[citation needed]

Leith is home to the Leith School of Art, which apart from the Glasgow School of Art is the only independent art school in Scotland.

Irvine Welsh had his Channel 4 drama Wedding Belles (2007) filmed in Henderson Street. Welsh's novel Trainspotting concerns a group of drug users living in the Leith area in the late 1980s and numerous local landmarks are referenced. Trainspotting Tours take place during the Leith Festival.

Leith Library is situated on Ferry Road.

Notable people[edit]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^ "All indwellaris of the town of Leyth, and utheris our Soverane Lordis liegis, being unfremen, may on na wayis buy wyne, walx, victuellis, irne, tymber, lint, pick, tar, or ony uther stapill gudis inbrocht or cumand be strangeris in at the port of Leyth, or ony uther port within the fredome of Edinburgh, unto the tyme that the merchandis and maisteris of the schipis cum to the officiaris of the burgh of Edinburgh, and enter thair gudis in the toun buikis; and thairefter the comptroller, thesaurer [treasurer] or utheris the Kingis officiaris takand als mekle of all sic gudis as sall be necessar for our Soverane Lordis awin proper use allanerlie [of him alone], not abydand upon making of pryces thairof; the officiaris of the said toun makand pryces conform to the actis of Parliament and lawis of the realme; and then the comptroller and thesaurar and uther officiaris foirsaid to pay as the prices ar maid, and our Soverane Lordis liegis to have thair partis of all sic gudis of the samin pryce maid be the officiaris and na derrer. Item, na indwellar of Leyth na unfremen, sall buy keyling hering selchis [seals], salmond or uther fishe cumand within the port of Leyth, or ony uther port within the fredome of Edinburgh, or salt or peill the samin, nor send the samin away to Ingland and uther places, except the Kingis comptroller, quha may tak samekle of the premessis and use and dispone the samin in manner foirsaid, as is necessar to the Kingis use allanerlie. Item, the indwellaris of the toun of Leyth, nather fremen nor na uther unfre persounis, may mak mercat of ony maner of gudis within the fredome of Edinburgh, bot within the said burgh allanerlie [only]. The toun of Edinburgh contra the toun of Leyth.".[7]

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Stòr-dàta fiosrachaidh air ainmean-àite ann an Alba". Retrieved 6 March 2012. 
  2. ^ a b The Story of Leith XXXIII. How Leith was Governed
  3. ^ "Overview of Port of Leith". Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 6 March 2012. 
  4. ^ "Site Record for Edinburgh, Leith, General North Leith; South Leith Details (Canmore)". RCAHMS. Retrieved 6 March 2012. 
  5. ^ a b Campbell 1827, p. 2.
  6. ^ Figure for 2003; "Record results for the year ended 31st December 2003" (Press release). Forth Ports. 22 March 2004. Retrieved 8 March 2012. 
  7. ^ Burgh Records of Edinburgh, 19 November 1519
  8. ^ Plan of Leith 1777
  9. ^ Harris, Stuart, 'The Fortifications and Siege of Leith', in PSAS, vol. 121, (1991), 361–62 & fn.21
  10. ^ Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. i: HMC Hatfield Manuscripts, vol. i: Sadler Papers, Edinburgh (1809): Forbes Full View, (1740): History of Reformation, John Knox, etc.,
  11. ^ Knox, Historie of the Reformatioun in the Realme of Scotland
  12. ^ Gilbert 1901, pp. 54,58.
  13. ^ Gilbert 1901, pp. 42,64–65.
  14. ^ Grant, p. 89.
  15. ^ Grant, p. 239.
  16. ^ "William Sanderson & Son Ltd Distillers, Leith". Leith Local History Society. 
  17. ^ City of Edinburgh Council planning records
  18. ^ End of the line for Leith port
  19. ^ Leith set for major development
  20. ^ "The Derivation of Edinburgh's Street Names". Retrieved 2013-01-22. 
  21. ^ Bradshaws Handoook, 1863: Leith
  22. ^ multiple contemporary photographic evidence
  23. ^ Marshall 1986.

Bibliography[edit]

External links[edit]