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|Players||2 (variations for 3–6)|
|Skill(s) required||Strategy, Tactics, Counting|
|Playing time||15–30 min.|
|Players||2 (variations for 3–6)|
|Skill(s) required||Strategy, Tactics, Counting|
|Playing time||15–30 min.|
Cribbage, or crib, is a card game traditionally for two players, but commonly played with three, four, or more, that involves playing and grouping cards in combinations which gain points. Cribbage has several distinctive features: the cribbage board used for scorekeeping, the eponymous crib or box (a separate hand counting for the dealer), two distinct scoring stages (the play and the show) and a unique scoring system including points for groups of cards that total fifteen.
According to John Aubrey, cribbage was created by the English poet Sir John Suckling in the early 17th century, as a derivation of the game "noddy". While noddy has disappeared, crib has survived, virtually unchanged, as one of the most popular games in the English-speaking world. The objective of the game is to be the first player to score a target number of points, typically 61 or 121. Points are scored for card combinations that add up to fifteen, and for pairs, triples, quadruples, runs, and flushes.
Cribbage holds a special place among American submariners, serving as an "official" pastime. The wardroom of the oldest active submarine in the United States Pacific Fleet carries the personal cribbage board of World War II submarine commander and Medal of Honor recipient Rear Admiral Dick O'Kane on board, and upon the boat's decommissioning the board is transferred to the next oldest boat.
The players cut for first deal and the lowest cut card deals. The dealer shuffles and deals five or six cards to each player, depending on the number of players. For two players, each is dealt six cards; for three or four players, each is dealt five cards. In the case of three players, a single card is dealt face down in the centre of the table to start the crib. Once the cards have been dealt, each player chooses four cards to retain, then discards the other one or two face-down to form the "crib" which will be used later by the dealer. At this point, each player's hand and the crib will contain exactly four cards. The player on the dealer's left cuts the deck and the dealer reveals the top card, called the "starter". If this card is a Jack, the dealer scores two points for "his heels", also known as "his nibs".
Starting with the player on the dealer's left, each player lays one card face up in turn onto a personal discard pile, stating the cumulative value of the cards laid (for example, the first player lays a five and says "five", the next lays a six and says "eleven", and so on), without the total going above 31. Once no more cards can be played, the cumulative position is reset to zero and those players with cards remaining repeat the process until all players' cards have been played. Players score points during this process for making a total of fifteen; for reaching exactly, or as close as possible to, a total of thirty-one; for runs and for pairs. Reaching 31 exactly scores 2 points. Three or four of a kind are counted as multiple pairs: 3 of a kind is the same as three different pairs, or 6 points. 4 of a kind is 6 different kinds of pairs, or 12 points. If a player plays to get 15, s/he gets 2 points. Players choose the order in which to lay their cards in order to maximize their score; experienced players refer to this as either good or poor "pegsmanship". If one player reaches the target (usually 61 or 121), the game ends immediately and that player wins.
Once the play is complete, each player in turn receives points based on the content of his hand in conjunction with the starter card. Points are scored for combinations of cards totalling fifteen, runs, pairs, (or three or four of a kind which can be considered multiple pairs), flushes and having a Jack of the same suit as the starter card ("one for his nob [or nobs or nibs]"). The dealer scores his hand last and then turns the cards in the crib face up. These cards are then scored by the dealer as an additional hand in conjunction with the starter card.
Muggins (also known as cut-throat) is a commonly used but optional rule, that must be announced before game play begins. If the opposing player fails to claim his full score on any turn, the opponent may call out "Muggins" and peg any points overlooked by the other player.
A match (much like tennis) consists of more than one game, often an odd number (3 games, 5 games, 7 games etc.). The match points are scored on the cribbage board using the holes reserved for match points. On a spiral board, these are often at the bottom of the board in a line with 5 or 7 holes. On a conventional board, they are often in the middle of the board or at the top/bottom.
In a two player game of cribbage a player scores one match point for winning a game. Their opponent will start as dealer in the next game. If a player skunks their opponent (reaches 121 points before their opponent scores 91 points) then that player wins two match points for that game. If a player double skunks their opponent (reaches 121 points before their opponent reaches 61), then they score four match points for the game. If a player triple skunks their opponent (reaches 121 points before their opponent reaches 31 points), they automatically win the match. Double and triple skunks are not included in the official rules of cribbage play and are optional. There are several different formats for scoring match points.
|Scoring Variation||Points for a normal win||Points for skunking opponent||Points for double skunking opponent||Points for triple skunking opponent|
|Official Tournament rules (American Cribbage Congress)||2 points||3 points||no extra points||no extra points|
|Long Match scoring||3 points||4 points||no extra points||no extra points|
|Free play rules||1 point||2 points||4 points||no extra points|
|Free play rules with triple skunk||1 points||2 points||4 points||Automatic win of match|
Visually, cribbage is known for its scoring board – a series of holes ("streets") on which the score is tallied with pegs (also known as "spilikins"). Scores can be kept on a piece of paper, but a cribbage board is almost always used, since scoring occurs throughout the game, not just at the conclusion of hands as in most other card games. Points are registered as having been scored by "pegging" along the crib board. Two pegs are used in a leapfrog fashion, so that if a player loses track during the count one peg still marks the previous score. Some boards have a "game counter", with many additional holes for use with a third peg to count the games won by each side.
There are several designs of crib board:
Each of the four 30-point divisions of the cribbage board (1–30, 31–60, 61–90, and 91–120) is colloquially called a "street." Being at 15 points would be first street, being at 45 point would be second street, etc.
|This section contains instructions, advice, or how-to content. (March 2012)|
There are certain cards and card combinations that are likely to be beneficial to a hand. They include
Players will try to keep these cards, non-dealers discarding to the crib cards deemed least likely to improve their hand after the cut (and simultaneously unlikely to strengthen their opponent's crib), while the dealer retains the best cards while throwing combinations that will likely maximize points in the crib.
Particularly useful cards, whether for the hand or crib, include:
Often a player is confronted with a conundrum: You have good cards to hold but must throw to your opponent cards that are likely to score significantly in his (or her) crib. If you are dealt a hand composed of 10-10-8-7-6-2, your best opportunity to score points is to hold the 8-7-6-2: fifteen four and a run of three make seven. More importantly, this hand can be cut to ten, eleven, twelve, fourteen or sixteen. But to what extent does throwing a pair of 10s mitigate the usefulness of holding the deuce? By throwing a 10-deuce, the likelihood your opponent will score significantly in the crib is reduced, while your hand's possibilities still range from five (two less than thrown the "better" way, offset by throwing two less points to the crib) to twelve. The opponent's largest possible crib, your having thrown a 10-2, is fourteen, whereas throwing a pair of 10s offers the maximal possibility of twenty-two.(10,10,5,5,5)
The answer to this lies in a player's position on the board. Is this the beginning of the game, and is the player willing to chance a loss for a hoped-for big gain? Are you so comfortably ahead that your opponent's crib won't hurt you? Or are you behind so significantly late in the game that you need holes at any cost? These questions, along with personality and perhaps feelings of "luck" good or bad, influence how best to throw a challenging hand.
Here are some short cut rules on what to throw, or not throw into the crib:
Some of these tactics will only work in a two-player game (with more players it is harder to devise a strategy). The "pone", the player who leads the play, should consider the following:
Much strategy in cribbage derives from the fact that the first hand counted is the non-dealer's. The dealer may be only two holes from winning and the opponent twenty, but if the pone holds a 3-3-4-5 hand and has cut a 5, the dealer who pegs only a Go will lose. Players use this knowledge to decide when to throw their hands (or play their cards) aggressively or defensively.
The standard cribbage board is laid out in "streets", where players move up the outside and down the inside. Each street comprises thirty holes, and it is universally acknowledged that a good cribbage player getting average hands and pegging intelligently will score about twenty-five points in one pair of turns, i.e., as dealer (a hand and a crib) and as pone (a single hand). Working backward from the end game, it can be seen that when a player deals what should be his final deal of the game, he wants to lie around the corner about six pegs on fourth street (also called the "home stretch"), necessitating twenty-five holes in the final three hands. (At this point of play, the dealer also wants the pone far enough from going out that a single hand and pegging won't end the game to the opponent's advantage.) Being thus positioned, the dealer is said to be "Home to deal", and will play judiciously, scoring only the points needed without allowing the opponent to take over the better position on the board.
Players who "deal short", however, often play more aggressively in an attempt to recoup points sufficient to re-establish the better board position.
|Wikisource has the text of the 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica article Cribbage.|